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I abated it somewhat using a good anti aluminum corrosion product I have experience with and have not seen anymore dust in the last 10,000 miles but it has made me push up OEM coolant replacement at 50,000 miles.Īnd not maintaining the engine cooling system and driving till the water pump fails is not that good either. Which is what the Inverter has for its big heat sink internally. There's some corrosion going on there most likely aluminum. I noticed at 20,000 what appeared to be salts or lack of better term dust on the inside of the cap of the Inverter bottle. I don't agree on not touching the Inverter coolant. It should last the life of the car.Ĭlick to expand.Here's an interesting thread about Toy Long Life coolant:Įxact ingredients in Toyota red coolant - YotaTech Forums
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That is a sealed system and experiences much less heat wear/tear as compared to the engine. You're certainly better off not touching the inverter cooling system than using something other than Toyota Super Long Life Coolant. Unfortunately, there is a reason for the "use only Toyota fluids." The coolant in particular is a problem, since no one makes a chemically equivalent Super Long Life Coolant, and mixing different long life coolant types can cause corrosion problems. it couldn't stand air in the system (still can't, its why they switched em to pressurized overflows) which makes it turn brown.Ĭan't stand being mixed with regular coolant (which can sludge it, something nobody knew about at first, so your regular shmoe would top off with whatever)" Regarding DexCool, a quick Google search turns up:ĭex-Cool GM Coolant in 2005 Pontiac Vibe? - Community Forums DO NOT, under ANY circumstance use a "all makes/all models" coolant like Peak Long Life/Prestone/SuperTech or conventional green/silicated OAT coolants like Zerex/Peak green or G-05" Where nthach stated: "Zerex now makes a coolant that is based on POAT chemistry that Toyota is using. The issue of what can be safely substituted for the Toyota SLLC has been discussed a few times previously on PriusChat. Key word on all of these being "probably." The hybrid trans being unique, I don't think you could ever get a straight answer from anyone regarding fluid substitution, though it is well known that Gen I filled with T-IV has a significantly higher trans failure rate than Gen II filled with WS, so don't use T-IV. Mobil 1 Synthetic makes no specific claim beyond T-IV compatibility but would probably work and is readily available. Redline D6 claims the same and the cost is comparable to AMS, but Redline followers swear by it. But, it is more expensive than ATF WS, and I remember seeing some Prius-specific concerns posted elsewhere. On the trans, AMSOil makes a Low Viscosity Fuel Efficient fluid. Check your water pump any signs of a weep, and if it is ok, keep going. My 2004 RAV4, filled with SLLC at the factory, made it 150,000 miles on the original coolant before the water pump finally gave out. The engine, I would say just run with what you have in there until your water pump dies. Click to expand.Unfortunately, there is a reason for the "use only Toyota fluids." The coolant in particular is a problem, since no one makes a chemically equivalent Super Long Life Coolant, and mixing different long life coolant types can cause corrosion problems.